The alarm went off at 5.15. By 5.45, we were standing in line at the East gate ticket office of the Taj Mahal and by just after 6.15 Mary and I had been searched, frisked, scanned and were in…. only to find that Brenda had been sent back out to put the pen-knife they found in her hand bag in a locker for safe keeping. They are understandably paranoid about dame or graffiti and they don’t let you take your i-pod in either, not that I have one. Mobile phones must also be switched off to avoid spoiling the tranquility of the place…no “Hi, it’s me. Yeah, I’m in front of the Taj Mahal!” type conversations allowed here!

Actually, I cheated as I use a camera phone so I put it on silent and hoped for the best.

We wandered through the gatehouse and down the topiary-lined pathways until we reached the gateway where the Taj is in full view and stood on the steps, poised for the moment when the sun came up, the Taj turned pink(ish) and the cameras started clicking. As the sun came up slowly, it was pretty obvious that however hard the authorities try to minimise pollution in the imemdiate area that may turn the marble of the building grey, they can’t do much about the smog and mirk that follows the sun on its upwards journey across the morning. The effect is more of a mirky autumn day at home than a mystical experience but there is something quite atmospheric about the misty backdrop.

We took some photos and once it was clear that there would be no “rosy sunrise” to turn the Taj that iconic pink colour, we wandered off to get a closer look, passing the marble bench where “those” pictures of Princess Diana were taken at the time of her marriage break-up. (Incidentally, anyone know how the inquest is doing? It all seems like another world away and yet strangely ironic at the same time).

The outside of the Taj is carved and you can take pictures of it, while the inside is carved and covered in millions of flowers made from inlaid rubies and other precious stones, and you can’t take pictures of it. The tombs inside are surrounded by beautifully carved and inlaid jalis and are actually replicas. The originals are under the floor of the entrance and you can peer into pitch blackness through a brass grating and say to each other “Oh yes, there they are…I think”.

Am I giving the impression that I wasn’t impressed? To be honest, it is very pretty and the weather didn’t do much, but I was surprisingly unmoved by it and disappointed that this was the case. I honestly don’t know why but I suspect people fall into two categories, those who swoon over architecture and those who prefer landscapes and I found myself enjoying the landscaped gardens and watching the Black Kites wheeling overhead and the chattering, bright green parakeets much more. Given a choice of this or Ranthambhore, I found the latter much more beautiful, far more interesting and a million times more awe inspiring.

Ok, call me a heathen, it won’t be the first time, but there was something very stark and impersonal about it all and I thought it wouldn’t have looked out of place on top of a wedding cake. Having said that, I’m not totally untouched by architecture. I have been moved to tears at the Menin Gate in Ypres, the truly, heartbreakingly beautiful memorials to those lost in battle at Thiepval and the peace and tranquillity of the war cemetery at Tyne Cot but then again, who could fail to give a sharp intake of breath at any monument designed to commemorate the idea of death on such a vast scale.

I’m glad I went and here’s a picture of me and Mary to prove we were there…..

[IMG] http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f108/Pauhla/PauhlaandMaryandanoldbuilding.jpg [/IMG]

 …but that’s really all I can say.

Ok, ok, here are a few more pictures…

The Taj in daylight (with smog effect)…

[IMG] http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f108/Pauhla/DSC01027.jpg [/IMG]

The “Baby Taj”, an exact copy across the courtyard made in Red Sandstone.

[IMG] http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f108/Pauhla/DSC01041.jpg [/IMG]

Front entrance to Taj showing decoration and the 5 Pillars of the Koran around the doorway…

[IMG] http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f108/Pauhla/DSC01059.jpg [/IMG]

Same view of the Baby Taj…

[IMG] http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f108/Pauhla/DSC01078.jpg [/IMG]

Decorations around the outside of the Taj showing what I think are Narcissi, Asphodels and Turk’s cap Lillies…

[IMG] http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f108/Pauhla/DSC01055.jpg [/IMG]

Same view of Baby Taj…

[IMG] http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f108/Pauhla/DSC01083.jpg [/IMG]

Close up of Ruby inlay on Taj…

[IMG] http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f108/Pauhla/DSC01057.jpg [/IMG]

View back down towards entrance…

[IMG] http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f108/Pauhla/DSC01023.jpg [/IMG]

“Arty” view of sunrise over the Baby Taj with Kites in sky above…

[IMG] http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f108/Pauhla/DSC01052.jpg [/IMG]

View of landscaped grounds and Mosque in distance…

[IMG] http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f108/Pauhla/DSC01017.jpg [/IMG]

So,  IF I beat him to it, and IF he is suitably heartbroken, Martin can plant a nice Rowan tree in memorial and I won’t be offended at all.

We went back to the hotel for breakfast and then ordered a rickshaw each to take us and our cases back up the punishing incline (if you are a rickshaw driver) to the Hotel Sheela Inn where good old Gunjan was waiting with the car. I offered to get off and walk as it was only my cases that needed transporting really, but the rickshaw driver, who had broken into a sweat and was now walking alongside, pushing with the help of a small boy who appeared out of nowhere, wouldn’t hear of it saying it was his job, so I gave him a decent tip.